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7th January 2010
After arriving back we only had a couple days to re-coupe before the solid West Swell hit..Heavy and hard!
It had loads of energy and was moving fast. I got had a shocker of a first session and only ended up getting four or five waves, after almost two hours, which just never happens with me, ever!

I was cold and bummed, decided to go in, had a Starbuscks latte, some fruit, an energy drink, changed my board, my wetsuit, the music I was listening to, my attitude and went back out an hour later..
Chalk n cheese..First wave I got stuck in a wave within the main wave half way up the face and pitched..Pitched and beaten to hell! Hard and heavy! But after that it was all joy, got right back in the saddle and charged hard. Late, steep and deep on these big, thick walls, with heaving cathedrals of water throwing far and wide with enough power to light up a small city for endless nights. When Mavericks breaks bigh on a west swell it's thick, lurchy, deadly and evil.

If there are days when you don't make mistakes these would be them!
Bad mistakes on these days, don't go unpunished..Ever!

After a really good day of waves we all had a couple beers at the Brewery and reflected on a great days waves and hoped there would still be some 12 footers on the low tide the following day..Shhhhh! Don't tell anyone.
Sure enough,in the morning on the high it looked like the swell had almost gone. Jeff and I went out early and got four or five on the tow, under sunny skies and glassy condditions and later sure enough, dead on low, I paddled out and the waves turned on..with only a handful of us on it, smilling and enjoying the spoils of knowing the wave and getting that little window at Mavericks that so many people miss...Glassy and clean and fun @ 12ft, Mavericks at it's best...Pure joy.

The next couple of days was just a blur of Christmas dinners and party's...Ryan Seelbach's one especially..What a huge jol!
Little did I NOT know it wasn't dress up..so I went as the Warewolf..armed with a Keg of beer, like what! Of course, you would to a fancy Christmas do..Needless to say the party was great, everyone got Hammered and the Wolf was a huge hit and the hot tub I think got short circuited at about 3am, due to 15 naked bodies overflowing the max limit..Clearly! and the rest is history and orro-vua to 2009..The rest is history..

Welcome 2010 and hurry up and have the Mavericks event, I gotta get home and do some work before I don't have a job anymore...Oh and a very Merry Christmas, New Year and compliments of the season to all you guys and gals..Legends, all of you ..Thanks all for the support, you've been great..Really appreciate it.
Chris |